History of the Window Sticker: The Monroney sticker as it is called in the auto industry is named for the late Almer Stillwell “Mike” Monroney, a senator from Oklahoma who sponsored the federal Automobile Information Disclosure Act in This statute requires that a sticker be affixed to the side window or windshield of every new car sold in the United States. While the law does not specifically mandate Monroney stickers for some trucks, automakers affix them across their entire vehicle lineups. As time went on the Window Sticker became a valuable and essential item to every car enthusiast along with the litany of additional documentation originally provided for each vehicle. For those of you that are lucky enough to own the original paperwork and documentation, we all envy you. I enjoyed researching the documentation aspect of the hobby and read everything I could get my hands on relating to this subject. I began collecting as much documentation relating to the Full Size Cars as I could find. I eventually built a database combining the multitudes of information I was able to gather.
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All models made during WW2. The post-war logo has the “G” and the “N” with a tail that drops below the other letters. Dot on “i” connected to “G”: Dot on “i” free from “G”: Gibson always used nitrocellulose lacquer for all instruments from to present. Some other special order custom colors were available. Prior to , Gibson used mostly spirit varnish.
This is very similar to Behlen’s Violin Varnish still available today. This spirit varnish produces a eggshell crazing patina. Around is when Gibson started experimenting with Nitrocellulose laquer, and by all models were using lacquer. In the lacquer experimentation process began on less expensive models like the opaque white top A3, L3, and Sheraton Brown “A” models.
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Mabel’s seen wearing several sweaters from past episodes. The burger and fries sweater from ” Boss Mabel. Trivia Mabel reveals pages on two historical subjects. The text on Ancient Greek says: Hercules, Narcissus, and Achilles are all myths that are retold to this day and have relevance in our current society.
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This is just a general guide and, as always, individual pieces may vary! Pre – Items imported to the U. Most Japanese ceramics were not stamped with any backstamp or they were marked with the Artist’s or Manufacture’s name in Japanese. In the Tariff Act has amended to make the words “Made In” in addition to the country of origin mandatory. This was not rigorously enforced until around so some pre pieces can still be found without the “Made In” phrase. They quite often will have a company logo.
You will find a few pieces from this era just marked Japan and a few with no markings at all. Custom Service ruled that Nippon could no longer be used and all goods where to be backstamped with “Made in Japan”. Some items got into the U. In an effort to save on labor costs not all pieces in a setting were backstamped. This means that you can have an 8 place setting that was imported as a 12 place setting with no stamps at all.
Make a design on-line or upload one from your pc. We will have a plotter cut it out the design on painter masking sheets. Put the Stencil on a canvas and spray paint over it and then peel it off and have your design on the canvas.
Seth Thomas c. paper label: Seth Thomas c. paper label: Seth Thomas c. paper label Illustrated – Antique Clock Trademarks – Clockmaker’s Names Database – How To Date Antique Clocks – Dating Antique Clock Styles – Dates of Antique Clockmakers – Antique Clock Labels & Trademarks – Antique Clock Serial Numbers and Dates.
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Marks are incised or cut into the wet clay, impressed with a tool into the wet clay or stamped with a machine and ink on dry clay. Marks may also be created in the mold — and these are the most permanent. Paper labels are the least permanent marks, and many companies used a paper label and another method for marking wares. Debolt’s Dictionary of American Pottery Marks is another good resource for identifying whitewareCeramics that are white or off-white, often high-fired, including vitreous china and ironstone, and usually used for dinnerware or bathroom sets.
Turn of the century and earlier homes had no running water. They used a pitcher and bowl set, a chamber pot, a toothbrush cup and assorted pieces in the bath area.
Splitting check-ins and general location sharing in to the separate Swarm app was designed to let the main Foursquare app focus on exploring and discovering information on locations, in a Yelp-like fashion. Swarm supports checking in with photos or stickers attached to it.
F is the production factory which stands for Fujigen. The first digit will be the last digit of the year, ie. The last 5 numbers will be the consecutive number denoting production count for the year with the caveat that each month will start at predetermined intervals of or , etc. Presently it is set at These serial numbers are usually quite different from the MIJ numbers, have many extra digits because of the enormous volume of guitars produced, and I am not familiar enough with any of them to tell you how to figure out the dating.
Cort Serial Numbers – Cort serial numbers are denoted with a C prefix followed by either 7 or 8 digits. I’m not sure what year the changeover occurred but using the formula it will be easy for you to tell. The letter denotes year, starting in with A, with a 5 digit production number.
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Hello, There should be a number on the Underwriter’s Laboratories Sticker. Enter it on the UL look-up page here and it will tell you the manufacturer of the piece. Date/year is a little more iffy as it just tells you when they received UL certification, not when any individual piece was made.
I have seen four A stamps on Natural finished bodies, and a trans-red with an A stamp. I’ve seen a C on a Monaco Yellow and a Sunburst. I have also seen a D, along with an A on a Sunburst body. This is just a theory, but if only A’s were put on Natural finished guitars as an example, it could help determine if a guitar is refinished. The number will have an ‘S’ prefix possibly an ‘E’, read below followed by a six digit number.
The first digit is supposed to reflect the year of manufacture, but there are major overlaps in this regard, and the serial number should not be used to ID a guitar’s exact year of manufacture. The last five digits are basically random. An important thing to look for are the matching serial number stickers in the neck pocket and on the pickguard. All bodies are Ash, and usually a heavy piece.